1996 Ford Ranger Check Engine Light On

[burnselk]

Today I called a Ford dealer and the service manager told me they charge $73 to check it. He said it could be many things but the checker would tell them exactly what it is. He also said it could be the EGR or ARR valve....probably one of the "sensors" and he said it was nothing to worry about. Said the bottom line was it would cost about $200 to $300 to test it and fix it.

I called a smaller well known shop with many years of experience....they said they charge $40 to scan the problem and that it could probably be fixed for an additional $30 to $80. Said it could be one of 16 or 17 sensors. He also said it's unsually not a problem to be too concerned about. In WV we don't have emission laws like some other states so it's not something that will prevent me getting a state inspection...at least not yet.

[johnj22]

I had the same problem. Had it scanned for the code. Was told that it was nothing to be worried about. I just took the lightbulb out 80,000 miles ago. Truck still runs like new and has 210,000 miles on it. The mechanic said more than likely it was the gas cap. I just tighten it about 3 turns and that's it.

[burnselk]

Thanks john....was your truck a Ford Ranger also? It's good to hear from someone who has the same problem. I was hoping it was nothing to worry about. I'll do just that.

[johnj22]

Yes I have a 1996 Ranger, 4 cyl. As I said before it has 210,000 miles on it and runs like a champ.

[burnselk]

I just took the lightbulb out 80,000 miles ago. Truck still runs like new and has 210,000 miles on it.

Was the bulb difficult to take out johnj22? I'd like to do that.

[johnj22]

The dashboard removal and reinstall took about 2 hours. Start with the obvious screws [4 I think] and work your way to the right. There are some hidden screws. It is pretty well A, B, C, D from left to right. If I remember correctly the last screw to remove will be in between the botton of the radio and top of the heater/AC cluster. Gently remove the dashboard cluster cover. It may not want to come out easily but gently give it some help. After I got everything loose the instrument cluster pretty well fell forward and a little manipulation had to be done to get it over the steering wheel column. I replaced all lights with the exception of the "Check Engine Light", that one I just took out completely. That is a call you will have to make for yourself. My state doesn't mandate it has to be working one way or the other. I found that the problem I caused was overfilling the tank with gas[squeezing that last drop in]. Quit when the pump stops when filling up and don't over tighten the gas cap. I just put the capcap on with about 3 turns. Overfilling causes not enough air getting into the tank and will cause the "Check Engine Light" to come on.

[bpw4788]

I have my check engine light on my 1996 ford ranger 4.0 automatic and i took it up to autozone and they said it might be the purge value or the canister

[boondocks]

I get that all the time on my old Ranger 4 banger. Make sure you get the gas cap good and tight. I finally got my wife to start tightening the gas cap 3 or 4 clicks and the light quit coming on, after I'd already replaced the purge valve. Sometimes you might need to replace the gas cap itself if it doesn't seal tight, any air getting in will cause the system to lose a vacuum and the light will come on.

[Acebmxer]

+1^ or you might have to take in to a repair shop and get the evap system smoke tested as their could be a solenoid stuck open or closed or a pin hole in one of the vent hoses and could through the code for a purge valve or canister. FYI the canisters are charcoal and if it got any fuel in it, it is ruined and will need to be replaced. They do not like it when fuel enters them.

I would recommend starting with the cheaper fixes first, Practice tightening the gas cap properly, replace the gas cap.