BEST watercooler?? I want to piece it together

[Munkul]

hey is that a gigabyte g-power?
good one! great air cooling

[bf2nut]

Originally Posted by jamie_horwood

this is a link to my pic
http://forums.tweaktown.com/attachme...tachmentid=228

My temps for case/cpu diode/cpu socket are in the new attachment below

wire mangement alone will decrease temps by 2c airflow wise for under $20 plus it actually looks nice. http://svc.com/sleeving.html as far as water cooling setup see what i put together and be here this week for under $350

my watercooling setup parts will be here this week below,whatever u do get a 1\2 tubing setup for max flow\cooling rate for running or adding multiple blocks with piece of mind u will have the flowrate ratio provided u have a nice pump,biggest rad u can afford to cool everything u should be good.and a name brand 450 watt+ powersupply is a must before u even think about doing a watercooled pc because u will be adding a pump drwas few watts and 2-3 120 mm fans,uv lights for the uv dye in the system to really bling your rig out and for leaking spotting reasons.i mean u can see a few drops of uv liquid leaking for a block,rad,res,etc.

main component***get this pump-- 83.99 -Swiftech(laing pump) MCP655 12 VDC Pump Liquid Cooling System 1\2 barbs only for max flow\cooling-The MCP655™ pump is a high reliability, high pressure industrial pump, featuring a 50,000 hour MTBF (5 year lifetime). Such reliability is afforded by the unique design of this pump, which contains only one moving part: the magnetically driven spherical impeller spins on a single ceramic bearing, thus extending the life of this pump beyond existing standards.
The pump is completely plug-and-play, and connects directly to any computer power-supply through standard 4 pin power connectors. It's compact design, quiet and powerful motor make it ideally suited for heavy duty cooling in environments where space is at a premium.



tubing for the system-TYGON BRAND ONLY 1\2 x 12-16foot- $2.80 per foot :l (ouch yes but bought once) it bends easier then any other brand period,wont crack,split,tear,etc
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=33&page=1

-----------blocks---------
--cpu is a must oviously(1\2in barbs only for thee best cooling power period accepting your massive 1\2 tubing being pushed by nice flowrate pump)i piked this 1 for $50 the have a all silver for $125 but its to pricey for me right now,tho some ppl think im loaded.

Danger Den 1\2 barbs (u can get any block u want,just get 1\2 barbs)cpu block i got for $50 :l http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=21&page=1

another excellent $50 cpu block http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108080


1\2 swiftech nf4 chipset block is a must for a mere $30 ppl just think all they need is a cpu block and thats it.well the thing of it is the chipset actually controls the memory\pci express loads and voltages and gets red hot temps even higher then cpu temps at times depending on your overclock.were do u think all the fsb raises go to? your chipset!!.mine gets so hot 50c+ it holds back my overclocks hardcore..u cant get whatever u want and im NOT trying to make u spend extra money,just spend the money once and get the performance the money should buy u the first time period.this will be the only part i would like u to def get in your w\c setup http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108079


radiater-($35-60)*remember 1\2 barbs only* get the biggest one u can afford.the more 120mm fans on it means its cooling rate is better(bigger means more capacity = cooler fluid temps) The Black Ice Xtreme 3 takes Xtreme PC Radiator performance to a higher level. Based on the powerful Black Ice Xtreme platform, the Xtreme 3 triple performance with three times the surface area accomodating three 120mm fans on a high density double row copper-finned core.this is the one i grabbed
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=72&page=1

im pissed i didnt see this 1 below here..i would have got this in a minute and its $20 cheaper!! :l
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=73&page=1

fluid xp---$35 32ox bottle =/ 1-2-3 bottles needed depending on radiater
Only one 32oz bottle needed for typical systems. When using the XtremeII, Some heater cores, and Thermochill 120mm fans x2 or larger, two bottles of 32oz may be needed.
!!u cannot run straight water!!u want to run 100 percent non conductive solution,non toxic for a worry free mindset if u get a leak this wont fry anything like water will or even a 50\50 mix water additative combo could do.
Environmentally Safe: Non-toxic, biodegradable
FDA approved food grade ingredients.
Long Lasting: 5+ year shelf life.
Robust: Not prone to mechanical shearing (Pumping).
Corrosive inhibiting: Neutral pH (pH of 7) and non-electrolytic; does not cause galvanic corrosion (if spilled in system, no need to clean between chips on board etc.) or rusting.
Non-conductive
Versatile: Formula can be tailored for various viscosities and systems.
Works great with UV water dye*
To be used as a water replacement in a cooling system. Adding water will negate the benefits of this coolant.*
****http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=63&page=1 A fluid MUST for watercooled rigs(non conductive,no worries leaking wise)Fluid Xp! $35 each 32 oz bottle(i needed 3 bah)$105 pfft 3x120mm rad systems use3 bottles.




$25-Danger Den Round (Cylindrical) Reservoir-to hold your fluid,u cant get whatever u want but this one is nice cause its clear and monunts under the top of pc for easy fluid top off unlike cd drive bay Reservoirs.


good luk man and lemme know how u made out.i will let u know how mine comes out.im gonna sticks some pelteriers on my res to chill the water,but thats after i break everything in.

[casecutter]

I agree with almost everything you listed except the chipset block. They usually cause more problems than they solve. A higher flow aftermarket chipset cooler will work just as well and not restrict water flow. Also. putting a peltier on the reservoir is not a good idea. You would need to either have a 1000W PSU or a second PSU dedicated to just the peltier and that setup has been tried before and it did not help. Other than that, all that other stuff will make an excellent loop. Also, I just run demineralized water and a little bit of automotive antifreeze something like a 70 % water/30% anti-freeze. Although that coolant you list is supposed to be excellent, but I am not going to spend that much money on coolant.

[bf2nut]

Originally Posted by casecutter

I agree with almost everything you listed except the chipset block. They usually cause more problems than they solve. A higher flow aftermarket chipset cooler will work just as well and not restrict water flow. Also. putting a peltier on the reservoir is not a good idea. You would need to either have a 1000W PSU or a second PSU dedicated to just the peltier and that setup has been tried before and it did not help. Other than that, all that other stuff will make an excellent loop. Also, I just run demineralized water and a little bit of automotive antifreeze something like a 70 % water/30% anti-freeze. Although that coolant you list is supposed to be excellent, but I am not going to spend that much money on coolant.

if u plan on overclocking u need the nf4 waterblock dude($40),thats 1 of the main things the flakes out a oc pc.cpu is 1 thing but the nf4 gets red hot when u turn everything up,and my flow rate?its purfect with swiftech,s massive pump ,1\2 tubing and i only needed 1 quart being my tubing was cut purfect to the 3 blocks.mine... http://www.ocxtreme.org/forumenus/showthread.php?t=1761



spend the $25 on 1 quart of the mct5...the other stuff u mentioned ruins pumps(antifreeze)etc...dont put dirty socks in $300 shoes.not 1 drop of any kind of water should be in your loop.

[casecutter]

How is it possible that water or antifreeze could ruin the pump? It is designed to pump water and made of Delrin platics. I have been running water in my loops for over 2 years and not had any pump wear/failure and I have not had any issues at all with any of my waterblocks. And running a chipset block is not neccessary and just adds restriction to the loop. I ran a DFI SLI-D with 2 6800GS cards in SLI with the stock chipset cooler and my chipset was never over 45C. It is all about airflow and if you don't do a good job for airflow then you have problems. I ran my 165 Opteron @ 3GHz 24/7 on that board and I was also running OCZ VX high voltage ram You could not possibly stress that chipset much more than I was and it never got close to too warm. And your link only works if someone is a member of that forum.

[bf2nut]

Originally Posted by casecutter

How is it possible that water or antifreeze could ruin the pump? It is designed to pump water and made of Delrin platics. I have been running water in my loops for over 2 years and not had any pump wear/failure and I have not had any issues at all with any of my waterblocks. And running a chipset block is not neccessary and just adds restriction to the loop. I ran a DFI SLI-D with 2 6800GS cards in SLI with the stock chipset cooler and my chipset was never over 45C. It is all about airflow and if you don't do a good job for airflow then you have problems. I ran my 165 Opteron @ 3GHz 24/7 on that board and I was also running OCZ VX high voltage ram You could not possibly stress that chipset much more than I was and it never got close to too warm. And your link only works if someone is a member of that forum.

and your chipset temps are smoking hot im sure(50c+ load),and running 1\2 tubing there is NO flow loss at all(i know).nf4 chipsets got smoldering hot without o\c alone,its worth the $30 dude...trust me.

for air cooling guys-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108072

for water guys(mine $2 more then air,lol)- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108079

nf4 chips get smoking hot period-fact dude,i guess its a waste because u didnt get 1?lemme see your watercooling rig pics yawg,im sure u loomed every wire and looks killer?

[casecutter]

To each his own when it comes to chipset blocks. That was another reason I went to the ATI chipset, they run cooler than a cucmber all the time. My passively cooled chipset is hardly warm to the touch after hours of gaming. I do agree that NF4 chipsets get stupidly hot, but some good airflow will make the stock cooler work well until it dies like they all do. Then another small aftermarket HSF unit will get the job done. The other issue I always had with using a waterblock is that there is no good solution when running SLI. There is only one block that can do it and they are very restrictive.

[amd_man2005]

First things first, ignore the fact that bf2nut says water/antifreeze ruins watercooling. Completely wrong.

Secondly, bf2nut you ARE NOT the god of watercooling and just because things work some way on your water cooling setup doesn't mean they will work the same on others. I've seen some of your recent posting and you can calm down the arogant know-it-all attitude.

[matm347]

As far as additives go you DO need to be careful as automotive cooling products are not designed for watercooling loops and can easily attack the plastics/adhesives used.

My heat piped and overclocked NF4 stays cool, under 40 after hours of gaming.

Also, since they are rated to handle up to 70C, 50C is perfectly fine.

[amd_man2005]

Originally Posted by matm347

As far as additives go you DO need to be careful as automotive cooling products are not designed for watercooling loops and can easily attack the plastics/adhesives used.

No, that is not the case. Auto coolants are non-corrosive as well and do not "attack" plastics and adhesives. I've seen many a people use a bit of antifreeze in their watercooling setup to prevent corrosion, and never have a problem.