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If you're talking about "serious overclocking", then I would recommend a full blown water cooling setup and not an one piece kit. When I contacted the marketing folks at Corsair, I was told that the system uses 3/8" tubing to transfer the liquid and the pump only puts out 350 LPH. While this should be useful as a general replacement for air cooling, it won't have the potential to handle something as far along as you seem to be talking.
If you're not comfortable with building your own water cooling solution, you can still get comparable performance with kits from either Swiftech or Danger Den. Both offer a product line sold as a "kit" that are high-end components with in depth installation instructions. A bit of minor case modding might be necessary, but the cooling potential will be far greater than the Corsair product. Considering the Nautilus has a MSRP of $159, it won't cost that much more to get a real water cooler in place. As to your concerns about other cooling devices, you'll probably do well enough with just CPU and GPU. I'd probably go with a cooling setup that includes a reservoir, though, since the higher water volume will allow the system to get the liquid back to a reasonable temperature before it begins to recirculate it. |
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I agree, the nautilus is a decent CPU cooler and will handle some good overclocking, but shouldn't be considered for more than that. As far as MB cooling, the heatpipe setup on the A8N32 is one of the better cooling setups, plus I doubt you'll find any waterblocks that will fit while your video cards are in place. Just make sure you get the board with the optional fan which was made to use when the CPU is watercooled.
The 7800GTs have a software voltage mod that lets you get over 550, but you'll need to keep them cool..dangerden has a real nice SLI cooling setup... www.frozencpu.com usually has them in stock. They also carry everything you'll need for a custom WC setup. |
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Great input! But I don't know squat about water cooling becuase this will be my first attempt to do it. What do you guys recommend I buy? Also what exactly do I need? If its not a one peice unit I'm not sure what else I'll need. Matm347 what SLI cooling setup would you suggest, until your post I wasn't even aware they made them. Help.....
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External or fully contained???? I'm not sure about that. I don't think it matters much since the system won't be moved at all unless something better replaces it down the road. |
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Ok, I'd recommend an external unit, this will keep things less cluttered in your case and will let the radiator have the coolest air. You might as well go ahead with 1/2", you can get the tubing from your local hardware store, something flexable that wont kink, I'd get at least 15 feet since you're going external. It should be less than $15.
Using frozencpu.com's prices/parts this is what I'd recommend. CPU block-Swiftech Apogee, suposedly the best block on the market right now...$50 PUMP - Swiftech MCP655 12V. I've had the older version for ~5 years with 0 problems. The newest version is variable and flows a little more (1200 LPH & 10ft head)....$90 RADIATOR - I suggest at least a 2x120 but bigger is always better here. Alphacool, which looks to be a re-branded Black ice extreme, has a 2x120 for $60. There's also a BIE 3x120 (what I run) for $125. Many people simply use a heater core from an auto parts store, these will also work well and be much cheaper but may be more troublesome to hook up (fittings may be quite large). Also, you do NOT want to mix materials (aluminum and copper) in the same loop, you'll get some nasty corrosion. RESERVOIR - You'll have to browse the different types and get the one that fits your case/setup the best. I have the round type that fits in a 120x1 fan location. I loose a fan, but since it's at the top of my case(and have another fan up there anyway) It's the easiest to keep a check on fluid level and add if needed. ~$50 FLUID - I will only recommend you get one that is designed for watercooling as automotive fluids can easily attack your parts. I made the mistake of running Red line's watter wetter, which attacked the glue on my reservoir which caused it to come apart. I now run fluid XP+, it's quite expensive but I liked that it tested just 1C warmer than pure water, is ready to run right out of the bottle (no mixing) and also lubricates my pump well. GPU - As I said before, the DD SLI setup is nice, but expensive. It's $270 for both cards. It cools both the GPU and the front side RAM. You can go cheaper and just get some generic GPU coolers (~40 each) and run RAM sinks. HOUSING - I used 1"x1/8" aluminum angle stock and made my own frame to hold the radiator and pump. I also had an old external hard drive rack that I swiped the power supply out of. It has no trouble powering the pump and 3 stealth fans I have. <$20. I can take pictures if they'll help. As you can see, it can get quite expensive. I suggest getting everything but the GPU blocks for now (which will be less than $300) and getting them as budget allows, as your cooling system will be up to the task.Some shopping around (mysimon.com) might save some $$$ as well. |
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Thanks for the parts lists. That does sound $pendy as you said but what scares me the most is getting everything to work as it should, sounds complex for someone that hasn't ventured any further than the basic P.C.. I think pics would help alot.
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I was looking on the danger den site last night and found a chipset cooler made expecialy for the DFI SLI-DR Expert and the AN8 or A8N (cant remember) SLI series. I dont have a link but it is easy enough to find.
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Chipset coolers are really not necessary unless you are looking for extreme quiet. The stock coolers are almost always as good and don't cause clearance issues. Plus they almost always cause a restriction and slow down flow rates. I would put one in it's own loop if it is used.
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