Very strange behaviour after changing PC case and PSU

[LaZ]

I have:
Gigabyte GA-EX38-DS4 (Bios F3)
Intel Core Duo E8400
Corsair XMS2 PC6400 CAS4
Hiper Type R MKII 680W ATX 2.2 (HIPER - PRODUCTS - HIPERPOWER - Type R II - HPU-5K680)
2 Samsung Spinpoint 250GB Sata

Yesterday I took the board out of my Arctic Cooling chassi and installed all into a new chassi/case and also installed a new PSU, a Hiper Type R MkII 680W + another cpu cooler (took a stock cpu cooler from the E6xx series) That PSU has a both a P4 and a P8 connection, I used the P8 (used the P4 on the "old" PSU). I changed NOTHING in BIOS prior to this, and the settings in BIOS worked flawlessly in my "old" case with the "old PSU".

PROBLEM No.1
When I for the first time hit the power on button the computer would not boot and got stuck in boot cycle (power on power off power on etc...), I had to clear CMOS to get it to boot to BIOS.
In BIOS I again sat my old values (9x333, PCIE 100MHz, Mem at 800MHz 4-4-4-12@2.1V) - saved and booted. Same problem, stuck in boot cycle - clearing CMOS. Only way to get a complete boot is to leave all settings in M.I.T on AUTO, cant even set the PCIE manually to 100 without getting stuck in boot cycle.

PROBLEM No.2
If I switch the computer OFF with the power On/off switch on the back of the PSU and leave it off for a while and then try to boot I again get stuck at boot cycle and have to clear cmos. Last night when I went to bed I left the switch back on the PSU ON. Today when I pushed the ON button on the computer it did not even react, I then switched the PSU unit off and on and then pushed the computer ON button and now it booted.

PROBLEM No.3
The AUTO settings for memory subtimings is not being set to the same values as it did BEFORE I changed chassi and PSU. The changes are the following 2 settings:
Static tRead Value_______________ went from 6 ---> 7
Static tRead Phase Adjust________ went from 1 ---> 17

PROBLEM No.4
My new PSU has 9 USB ports, 8 regular + 1 that is constant ON wetyher the computer is ON or OFF for charging off cell phones/mp3 players etc. Could that "constant ON" function make my LED on the powerON button on my Gigabyte GZ-X1 chassi to ALWAYS be lit up? Cuz no matter if the computer is ON or OFF that LED shines blue (and no I have not connected it wrong on the mobo - its connectd to the powerbutton switch on the F_Panel on the mobo).

I really dont understand what is happening, I certainly did NOT expect the computer to get all weird on me just cuz I changed chassi and PSU.

ps. by the way, my other issue Problem installing Vista on GA-EX38-DS4 is not a problem anymore, I am now using RAID0 and HDDs work perfectly on port 0-3.

EDIT.
The problems described above has been resolved since quite a while and this thread is nowadays about other asorted issues.

[Lsdmeasap]

Hmmm If I was you first I would test it with the old PSU back in there, and see if the new PSU is the culprit to issues 1 + 2

For 3, just so you know, when on Auto those numbers you see on the left are not what you get. They may sometimes run at that but rarely. You should manually set the subtimings if you want a certain setting. And as for tRead Phase adjust you do not want 17 that is for sure, you want Auto or 0 or 1-31, so manually set that to one of those. Using 1 as you said you did before was likely never used because in combination with the tRead Value of 6 it would make that 6 a 5 which would not work for sure so it was not using 5 and 1 and I can tell you that now.

Static tRead would likely not ever be ran at 6 either, Auto is constantly changing and what you see if the bios is rarely the same. But even if you do see it often the same in Auto mode on the left that number is not used in windows

As for you case LED issue, yes your PSU could cause that some do it with keyboard LED's or your new case could have a always on LED, again the only way to test that would be also putting back in the old PSU.

Overall I think you should put back in the OLD PSU for a minute and see if it fixes 1 + 2 and for the Case LED as well.

In general your overclock settings may likely for sure be affected buy a new PSU simply because using 8 pin over 4 pin provides better power so your old settings may be too much now voltagewise. Yeah, you should not see many issues, but you can likely use a little more conservative overclock though, possibly.

Finally since you do overclock.... AUTO is not the way to go on 99% of the settings, they should ALWAYS be manually set. Auto settings are there for those who one do not overclock, two for those who do not know what to do, and three for first booting into a system to better make components work together so system builders can get into the BIOS and make the proper settings and changes

[LaZ]

Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap

In general your overclock settings may likely for sure be affected buy a new PSU simply because using 8 pin over 4 pin provides better power so your old settings may be too much now voltagewise. Yeah, you should not see many issues, but you can likely use a little more conservative overclock though, possibly.

Finally since you do overclock.... AUTO is not the way to go on 99% of the settings, they should ALWAYS be manually set. Auto settings are there for those who one do not overclock, two for those who do not know what to do, and three for first booting into a system to better make components work together so system builders can get into the BIOS and make the proper settings and changes

But I am not overclocking? The 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1V is the factory specs on the corsair mems. And I am only using the AUTO settings cuz IF I set FSB = 333, Multiplier = 9, PCIE Freq = 100 as it should be non overclocked, factory setting, the comp goes into a boot cycle 2-3 times then succesfully boot, and when I then enter BIOS I notice all the factory settings I manually edited is back to AUTO.

Also the AUTO setting on my mems is sat to 5-5-5-18 according Cpu-Z which is what they should be at when ran on 1.8v only

[Lsdmeasap]

I meant in general, as for you getting reboot cycle when trying to not use AUTO it is either because you are using two low memory subtimings on a setting, or Auto on one of those settings is too low. Which I said those static tReads, BOTH are improper. Whether they do often get used or not, they would be more likely to be used at boot and using (Or Auto giving you) tread value of 6, then static phase adjust of 1 = Static tRead value of 5 for sure is not going to boot and always cause you a reboot cycle.

And when I referred to auto not being what you see in the BIOS and what you get in windows I mainly meant the subtimings. You should try these settings >>>

Robust Graphics Booster___________ [Auto]
CPU Clock Ratio ____________ [9]
CPU Host Clock Control_ [Enabled]
CPU Host Frequency (MHz)__________ [333]
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz)_______ [100]
C.I.A. 2__________________________ [Disabled]
System Memory Multiplier (SPD)____ [2.40 NO LETTER]
DRAM Timing Selectable_______ SPD __ [Manual]
Performance Enhance = [Standard]

CAS Latency Time________________ 4
Dram RAS# to CAS# Delay_________ 4
Dram RAS# Precharge Delay_______4
Precharge Delay (tRAS)__________ 12

Start with highest and then move lowering ONE AT A TIME and test after each move.

For now, to address your issues we are speaking of at least make the BOLD changes to see if it helps you get a bit more stable
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD)_________ 3-4
Rank Write to READ Delay________ 3-5 or 7-9 or 9-11 (only testing will show you which is best)
Write to Precharge Delay_________ 3-5
Refresh to ACT Delay______________ 38-42
Read to Precharge Delay__________ 3-6
Static tRead Value_______________7-10
Static tRead Phase Adjust________ 1-31 or Zero

System Voltage Control____ [Manual]
DDR2 OverVoltage Control__ [+0.300V]
PCI-E OverVoltage Control_ <<<< +0.1V for stability
FSB OverVoltage Control___ <<<< +0.1V for stability
(G)MCH OverVoltage Control <<<< +0.1V for stability
CPU Voltage Control_______ [NORMAL]

Ohh glad to hear you got your HD issue figured out

[LaZ]

Going to test the numbers u gave me in a min. I took a screenshot of memset so u can see what timings I have now on auto, maybe u can make something of it. Also gonna try a different PSU to see if the LED light computer-ON button stops being constantly lit even when computer is off.

Oh and another thing, should I keep using the P8 or switch back to P4?

[LaZ]

These are the "old" timings that wat set by AUTO before I switched chassi and PSU. Only difference is the 4-4-4-12 I had manually sat then.

[Lsdmeasap]

You cannot compare 444 and 555 subtimings in auto and expect to know anything from it, just do not use auto is best.

And yeah I would try the old PSU and see if you have the same issues, maybe you bumped something loose on your Mobo?

As for 8pin, use it since you have it for sure!!

[LaZ]

Switched to another PSU and the blue LED-light on the powerOn-button went out when I switched off the computer so from that I conclude it must be my new PSU's "constant-on"-function for one of the USB ports for the charging peripherals-thing that makes the LED-light light up even when computer is off... and problem with the cmos needing to be cleared after the PSU-unit has been switched off-on seems to have disappeared.

But still, the fact that the computer-on-button was non-responsive earlier today after one night "rest" with computer off but PSU-unit on still worries me. I guess I'll have to turn off the PSU unit every time I shutdown my computer.

Also the tiny little LEDS on the mobo that indicates the load on the cpu gives a faint shimmer when the computer is OFF but PSU ON, is that something to be worried about? I mean could any harm be done to the mobo if I dont switch the PSU off?

Sorry for all the silly questions but I really must get to the bottom of all this and you are very skilled in this area + very nice to help me :)

[LaZ]

I dont have System Memory Multiplier SPD [2.00] without a letter? Only 2.xxb-d

Another thing I noticed was clearing cmos defaults to adding 0.5 multiplier thus making it 333x9.5 = 3.16GHz. I am using that now, but Cpu-Z reports 333x9 =2999GHz. Is Cpu-Z reporting wrong or bios wrong?

[Lsdmeasap]

Ya, that is not a huge issue the LED, some boards keyboards do it others cases depending on the PSU used.

I dont think that should affect your board, but I dunno for certain. If it was me I would personally RMA the PSU and get one that does not have a constant on function if it bothers/worries you and you don't actually need this feature. You likely paid a nominal fee for this feature which seems you do not want, I'd get something for less without it

E8400 can only use 6-9, so you can ONLY use the .5 multi with 6.5 or 7.5 or 8.5, if you want to use it, and still run stock speed use the 8.5 X 353 =3.005 Then you should also likely find a multi without a letter, such as 352 x 2.00 =847 which you can easily use for sure.

As for using it with 9 multi and the strap letter with 2.00 it will run fine once you add some MCH voltage Most likely