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Thread: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking




  1. #1
    Spyone1 is offline Member
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    Default Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    Hi yet again.

    I have done some research looking for what temperatures would be considered normal before I attempt overclocking, to see if I need to address cooling before overclocking.
    All the overclocking sites I can find give temperature results after actual overclocking, but not before.

    My computer specs are listed. The system is using default BIOS settings for everything (voltage etc). i.e not overclocked yet.

    Programs I have running are:
    ASRock XFast LAN, AsRock XFast USB, Avast Professional, Driver Update, Aida 64 Extreme, IoBit Malware Fighter, IoBit Advanced System Care Professional, IoBit Smart Defrag, Google Chrome, Mozilla Thunderbird.
    (Just so you know it isn't really under any load to speak of).

    Temperatures I am getting are as below. I don't know if these are good or not. I do wonder why the VRM temperatures are 15-20 degrees C above anything else.

    Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking-temps-jpg

    I forgot to mention, the room is a constant 21 degrees C, the case sits on the floor in the open, it currently has negative computer case pressure.

    Cheers
    Last edited by Spyone1; 02-05-2014 at 05:14 AM. Reason: added stuff I forgot to mention.

    MAIN PC
    CPU
    - i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz
    MB - AsRock X79 Extreme6 (Bios P2.80)
    RAM - 2 x 8Gb Patriot Viper 1866 CL10 Series @933Mhz
    GPU - ASUS Radeon HD 7870 Direct CU II (2Gb) x 2 (XFire)
    CASE - Fractal Design Desire R4 Black Case (windowless)
    FANS - Standard Fan CPU, 5 x FD Silent 2 140mm Fans in case
    PSU - Thermaltake R2 800W
    SSD - Sandisk SDSSDHP2 240Gb (boot)
    HDD - 2 x Seagate ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    SYS - Win7 x64 Ultimate
    KB - Logitech K350 Wireless
    MOU -
    Razor Naga Molten mouse
    MON - ASUS VS247H (1920 x 1080)
    UPS - Belkin Line Interactive 1400VA 840W
    System is not overclocked at all.
    2ND PC
    AMD FM2 A10-7850K @ 3.70Ghz
    AsRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ (Bios P2.90)
    2 x 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

    Kaveri Spectre Desktop (onboard) @ 760Mhz
    Thermaltake V9 case (1 x 120mm, 1 x 240mm fan)
    Corsair H80i Water Cooler w/2 x 120mm fans
    Seasonic G-Series (SSR-650RM Active PFC F3) 650W

    OCZ Vertex 4 120Gb SSD (Boot)
    2 x ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    Win7 X64 Ultimate
    Logitech G15 (6 G Keys) USB
    Logitech MX-518 mouse
    Phillips 22HFL3350D/10 (1920 x 1080)
    NAS - Netgear RN104-100AJS 4 Bay (not hooked in)
    Not overclocking


  2. #2
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    Temps don't look awful bad or anything compared to what I can find on the net.

    What cooler you using? Therein lies the cats whiskers, does the cooler perform when given more heat to dissipate.
    #1 - Please, when seeking help, enter the make and model of ALL parts that your system is comprised of in your Signature, or at least the model #'s in your System Specs, then "Save' it.
    ____If you are overclocking, underclocking, or undervolting any parts, informing us of this and their values would prove beneficial in helping you.

    #2 - G.Skill RAM Configurator for your boardSamsung Memory for your boardLatest AMD Chipset Drivers/WindowsLatest AMD Graphics Drivers/WindowsLatest Intel Drivers

    #3 - Please use the eXtreme Outer Vision Power Supply Calculator found HERE to determine if it might be your PSU at issue.
    ____Consider your PSU to be the foundation from which all else is built upon. Anything built upon a weak foundation is poorly built.

  3. #3
    Spyone1 is offline Member
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    TY.

    Right now, the standard CPU cooling fan supplied when I purchased the CPU.
    The case has 5 x 140mm fans (2 at the front, 2 at the top, 1 at the back).

    The plan is to add a Corsair H80i water cooler mounted where the rear fan is now, and move the current rear fan to either the bottom of the case or the side of the case.

    Is it normal for the VRM temps to be higher than anything else?
    Last edited by Spyone1; 02-05-2014 at 05:43 AM. Reason: changed wording about where the water cooler goes

    MAIN PC
    CPU
    - i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz
    MB - AsRock X79 Extreme6 (Bios P2.80)
    RAM - 2 x 8Gb Patriot Viper 1866 CL10 Series @933Mhz
    GPU - ASUS Radeon HD 7870 Direct CU II (2Gb) x 2 (XFire)
    CASE - Fractal Design Desire R4 Black Case (windowless)
    FANS - Standard Fan CPU, 5 x FD Silent 2 140mm Fans in case
    PSU - Thermaltake R2 800W
    SSD - Sandisk SDSSDHP2 240Gb (boot)
    HDD - 2 x Seagate ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    SYS - Win7 x64 Ultimate
    KB - Logitech K350 Wireless
    MOU -
    Razor Naga Molten mouse
    MON - ASUS VS247H (1920 x 1080)
    UPS - Belkin Line Interactive 1400VA 840W
    System is not overclocked at all.
    2ND PC
    AMD FM2 A10-7850K @ 3.70Ghz
    AsRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ (Bios P2.90)
    2 x 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

    Kaveri Spectre Desktop (onboard) @ 760Mhz
    Thermaltake V9 case (1 x 120mm, 1 x 240mm fan)
    Corsair H80i Water Cooler w/2 x 120mm fans
    Seasonic G-Series (SSR-650RM Active PFC F3) 650W

    OCZ Vertex 4 120Gb SSD (Boot)
    2 x ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    Win7 X64 Ultimate
    Logitech G15 (6 G Keys) USB
    Logitech MX-518 mouse
    Phillips 22HFL3350D/10 (1920 x 1080)
    NAS - Netgear RN104-100AJS 4 Bay (not hooked in)
    Not overclocking


  4. #4
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    Quote Originally Posted by Spyone1 View Post
    The plan is to add a Corsair H80i water cooler mounted where the rear fan is now, and move the current rear fan to either the bottom of the case or the side of the case.
    You best get a fan on those VRMs before the H80i. Whatever airflow that stock cooler is providing the VRMs will be gone once you put that H80i in there. Exacerbating the X79/LGA2011 high vrm temps.

    This may sound counterproductive. As a test unpower the top front most fan and see if that alone changes the airflow inside your case with the side on. Might also try doing the same with the other top fan too if you see some results with just doing the one.

    But do pay close attention to your temps and that of the VRM temps too while doing so.
    Last edited by - wardog -; 02-05-2014 at 07:21 AM. Reason: tems to temps

  5. #5
    Spyone1 is offline Member
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    I did something even slightly more radical. I reversed the airflow of the two top fans, so they are blowing in to the case, not sucking air out. It gives me positive case pressure instead of negative and means more cool air is being blown in to the case at the expense of air extraction.

    The results were immediate. At idle, (same programs as above running), the CPU temp dropped by 3 degrees (to 27), the CPU package dropped by 4 degrees (to 33), VRM1 dropped by 6 degrees (to 42) and VRM2 dropped by 5 degrees (to 42).
    Strangely, the MB temperature itself has stayed about the same.

    I then ran the AIDA 64 System Stability Test, on everything except local disk drives, for 20 minutes. I had just finished running Benchmark 8 before that which is why the VRM, MB and CPU minimums in the stability test are above what I just said above.

    Results below. I have no idea what some of it means yet though, especially voltages and suchlike. Are the figures below okay for a non-overclocked system please?

    Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking-aida64-stress-test-jpg
    Last edited by Spyone1; 02-05-2014 at 02:28 PM.

    MAIN PC
    CPU
    - i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz
    MB - AsRock X79 Extreme6 (Bios P2.80)
    RAM - 2 x 8Gb Patriot Viper 1866 CL10 Series @933Mhz
    GPU - ASUS Radeon HD 7870 Direct CU II (2Gb) x 2 (XFire)
    CASE - Fractal Design Desire R4 Black Case (windowless)
    FANS - Standard Fan CPU, 5 x FD Silent 2 140mm Fans in case
    PSU - Thermaltake R2 800W
    SSD - Sandisk SDSSDHP2 240Gb (boot)
    HDD - 2 x Seagate ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    SYS - Win7 x64 Ultimate
    KB - Logitech K350 Wireless
    MOU -
    Razor Naga Molten mouse
    MON - ASUS VS247H (1920 x 1080)
    UPS - Belkin Line Interactive 1400VA 840W
    System is not overclocked at all.
    2ND PC
    AMD FM2 A10-7850K @ 3.70Ghz
    AsRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ (Bios P2.90)
    2 x 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

    Kaveri Spectre Desktop (onboard) @ 760Mhz
    Thermaltake V9 case (1 x 120mm, 1 x 240mm fan)
    Corsair H80i Water Cooler w/2 x 120mm fans
    Seasonic G-Series (SSR-650RM Active PFC F3) 650W

    OCZ Vertex 4 120Gb SSD (Boot)
    2 x ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    Win7 X64 Ultimate
    Logitech G15 (6 G Keys) USB
    Logitech MX-518 mouse
    Phillips 22HFL3350D/10 (1920 x 1080)
    NAS - Netgear RN104-100AJS 4 Bay (not hooked in)
    Not overclocking


  6. #6
    parsec's Avatar
    parsec is offline Senior Member
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    For using the stock cooler on an i7-3820, the core temps are not bad. But also note that CPU power saving features are enabled in the BIOS, since I see yours is idling at 1.2GHz, from the standard 3.7GHz as we can also see in the last screenshot.

    Your load temps at 3.7GHz in the low 60's C is also good, but that won't last once an OC is applied.

    The VRM temps are normally higher than the CPU temperature. They are different components not located on the CPU, they are under the heat sinks at the top of the board. They supply the appropriate voltage and power to the CPU. When you changed the fan direction, you were blowing air directly on the VRM heatsink.

    Expect the VRM temps to get much warmer if you OC, since the VRMs are just a "6 + 2" design, and any OC will need more power and demand more of the CPU VRMs. Of course we don't know what MOSFETs are used in your board, they might be more robust than other boards. For example, my Z77 Extreme 4 board is a "8 + 4" design, although a detailed analysis done by a few enthusiasts deemed that to be false, as well as being an analog controlled design, not digital as claimed by ASRock. But all of that may not matter, as long as clean power is supplied to the CPU in the amount it needs, without the VRMs being overstressed and failing.

  7. #7
    Spyone1 is offline Member
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    Thanks Parsec

    I have ended up with another concern, one with my GPU (well, the primary one anyway).
    I did a load test on it last night using Furmark. On the 15 minute test the GPU diode got to 102 degrees C within 5 minutes, with the GPU at 99% and the fan at 100%. I stopped the test at that point.
    I then did the 1080p test, and the GPU diode got to 88 degrees C by the end of the 1 minute test.

    I kept the temp monitor going and disabled Crossfire whilst I went and played Final Fantasy XIV. The primary video card GPU diode temperature quickly went to 102 degrees C...and pretty much stayed there. It didn't drop below 98 degrees C the entire time I was playing, but didn't go over 102 degrees C.

    I intend to remove that card and swap it with the other one to see if this temperature gradient is maintained, or if it is specific to that one card.

    If that is the temperature experienced without an overclock, I shudder to imagine what will happen once I attempt to overclock. It may not be worth it???

    MAIN PC
    CPU
    - i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz
    MB - AsRock X79 Extreme6 (Bios P2.80)
    RAM - 2 x 8Gb Patriot Viper 1866 CL10 Series @933Mhz
    GPU - ASUS Radeon HD 7870 Direct CU II (2Gb) x 2 (XFire)
    CASE - Fractal Design Desire R4 Black Case (windowless)
    FANS - Standard Fan CPU, 5 x FD Silent 2 140mm Fans in case
    PSU - Thermaltake R2 800W
    SSD - Sandisk SDSSDHP2 240Gb (boot)
    HDD - 2 x Seagate ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    SYS - Win7 x64 Ultimate
    KB - Logitech K350 Wireless
    MOU -
    Razor Naga Molten mouse
    MON - ASUS VS247H (1920 x 1080)
    UPS - Belkin Line Interactive 1400VA 840W
    System is not overclocked at all.
    2ND PC
    AMD FM2 A10-7850K @ 3.70Ghz
    AsRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ (Bios P2.90)
    2 x 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

    Kaveri Spectre Desktop (onboard) @ 760Mhz
    Thermaltake V9 case (1 x 120mm, 1 x 240mm fan)
    Corsair H80i Water Cooler w/2 x 120mm fans
    Seasonic G-Series (SSR-650RM Active PFC F3) 650W

    OCZ Vertex 4 120Gb SSD (Boot)
    2 x ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    Win7 X64 Ultimate
    Logitech G15 (6 G Keys) USB
    Logitech MX-518 mouse
    Phillips 22HFL3350D/10 (1920 x 1080)
    NAS - Netgear RN104-100AJS 4 Bay (not hooked in)
    Not overclocking


  8. #8
    parsec's Avatar
    parsec is offline Senior Member
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    Sounds like you need more ventilation for the video cards. I have the same Fractal case as you do, and your board looks like there is some space between the video cards.

    So you have five fans, let me guess, two in front, two on top, one in the top rear? Two pushing air in from the front, but now two pushing air in from the top, and one pulling air out at the top rear? Or what is the setup? What fans do you have?

    Not enough exhaust in that case now, and not enough cool air getting to the video cards. If you can mount a fan on the side panel blowing air onto the video cards, that would help. You really should go back to using the top fans as exhaust, the VRM temps are not that bad until you reach ~60C+.

    Set the fan speed controller to high, since all your HDDs are blocking air flow and not much cool air is coming in the front at all, with the front filter. I have the filter removed, but I don't mind cleaning dust. Filters restrict air flow a lot, at least 50%.

    You could try using a fans on the side panel as exhaust and still use the two top fans as intakes. If you get the H80i, you'll need to decide to use outside air to cool the radiator, or internal case air. Outside air is cooler, but you then need to get the warmed air that passed through the radiator out of the case. That means going back to top exhaust fans.

    No way should you OC the video cards, they are maxed out temp-wise. If you OC the CPU, even with a better cooler, if you don't get that hot air out of the case, things will only get worse. Also, the heat from the video cards heats the air in the case, and then that air is used to "cool" the CPU.

    If the top card is at 102C, I doubt it's just the card. Heat from the card below it is raising its temperature.

    The mother board temp sensor is usually at the bottom of the board, so the air from the top of the case won't have much if any affect on it.

  9. #9
    Spyone1 is offline Member
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    Thanks again. Just switched the fan controller to high

    Good guess. Two at the front pushing air in, two at the top pushing air in, one at the rear pulling air out. All 5 of them are the FD 140mm fans (I bought 3 extras when I bought the case, same as the ones pre-installed).
    I do have a spare 120mm fan I can mount on the side until I get the H80i and new CPU/MB/RAM in a month.

    Too many (deleted expletive) items need to be cooled at once.

    I was planning to use the H80i as an exhaust, pulling internal air from the case through the radiator. I was working on the theory that if I do it the other way, I will be pushing warm air in to the case.

    I guess the plan then would be 2 pushing in from the front, 1 from the side, 1 from below (I will mount another fan just in front of the GPU), 2 exhaust at the top and 1 (H80i) exhaust at the back.

    In the meantime, since obvioiusly overclocking is not an option, I will go back to the two top as exhaust. After all, it does everything I want it to do without the overclocking.

    MAIN PC
    CPU
    - i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz
    MB - AsRock X79 Extreme6 (Bios P2.80)
    RAM - 2 x 8Gb Patriot Viper 1866 CL10 Series @933Mhz
    GPU - ASUS Radeon HD 7870 Direct CU II (2Gb) x 2 (XFire)
    CASE - Fractal Design Desire R4 Black Case (windowless)
    FANS - Standard Fan CPU, 5 x FD Silent 2 140mm Fans in case
    PSU - Thermaltake R2 800W
    SSD - Sandisk SDSSDHP2 240Gb (boot)
    HDD - 2 x Seagate ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    SYS - Win7 x64 Ultimate
    KB - Logitech K350 Wireless
    MOU -
    Razor Naga Molten mouse
    MON - ASUS VS247H (1920 x 1080)
    UPS - Belkin Line Interactive 1400VA 840W
    System is not overclocked at all.
    2ND PC
    AMD FM2 A10-7850K @ 3.70Ghz
    AsRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ (Bios P2.90)
    2 x 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

    Kaveri Spectre Desktop (onboard) @ 760Mhz
    Thermaltake V9 case (1 x 120mm, 1 x 240mm fan)
    Corsair H80i Water Cooler w/2 x 120mm fans
    Seasonic G-Series (SSR-650RM Active PFC F3) 650W

    OCZ Vertex 4 120Gb SSD (Boot)
    2 x ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    Win7 X64 Ultimate
    Logitech G15 (6 G Keys) USB
    Logitech MX-518 mouse
    Phillips 22HFL3350D/10 (1920 x 1080)
    NAS - Netgear RN104-100AJS 4 Bay (not hooked in)
    Not overclocking


  10. #10
    parsec's Avatar
    parsec is offline Senior Member
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    Default Re: Pre-Overclocking Temps at idle before I attempt overclocking

    The AIO coolers like the H80i are a bit of a challenge to configure, as intake or exhaust and what affect it has on other components.

    Bottom line IMO, the heat from even an OC'd CPU with the AIO cooler's fans blowing into the case is much less than that created by two video cards. I have mine set up as intake, with two top exhaust fans pulling the radiator exhaust right out of the case. But I also do not run two video cards, or even one at high temps.

    I have a fan on the bottom of the case, between the PSU and drive cage, pulling air in from the bottom. In your situation, the side vent should at least be open, even better with a fan. The only way to tell what works best is to experiment with the fans as intake or exhaust, and check the temperatures.

    The FD fans are good fans, but running only up to 1000 RPM, they are not optimal for ultimate cooling. Then there is the noise factor, if you care or don't. I have all my fans on speed control, and turned way down for basic use. With them all at full blast, it is LOUD!

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