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Thread: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on




  1. #1
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    Question Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    Here's my system specs (be sure to click on page 2 of the spreadsheet):
    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...UE&usp=sharing
    The relevant ones to this thread are the Team Xtreem 8GB sticks, rated at 2400MHz at 1.65V, 10-12-12-31.
    UEFI detects them as 1333MHz by default, but changing it to 1866MHz allows booting into UEFI without Dr. Debug code 48'ing.
    I'm aware that 8GB sticks don't overclock as well as 4GB sticks, but I'd like to at least get them to their factory rating.

    I started by changing the speed to 2400MHz. Dr. Debug 48. Tried voltage at 1.65V, 1.70V, 1.75V, and 1.80V. Before running it at higher voltages, I checked to see if the board's maximum selectable voltage was safe; JEDEC standards are higher than 1.80V for regular server RAM that runs below 1.65V, and elsewhere users have tried it. Still got error code 48. I let it simmer at 48 for around ten minutes, and then booted back into UEFI and adjusted settings for another hour or so. I changed the XMP to the 1.2 included by default. Code 48.

    Tried the same settings at 2133MHz. Code 48.

    I went back to 2400MHz and changed the latencies manually to 9-10-10-12-31 (which isn't correct--it should have been 9-10-12-12-31 or 10-10-12-12-31, but all that happened was the same reset to default after boot failure--but I never got to try the latter settings, which I'll get to soon in this post). I also tried 11-11-11-31 with the same error 48.

    I then set the CPU north bridge for the memory controller to 1.4V, which is higher than the default 1.3V, with the speed at 2133MHz and the latencies at auto. I had the XMP profile set to auto. Code 48.

    Now, I didn't keep a log of the changes since I'm not really doing this scientifically, but I think it was at 2400MHz, 1.4V north bridge, 1.8V DRAM, Auto XMP, memory timings at 11-11-11-31. Saved changes and exited, booted back into UEFI, suddenly a pop from my computer case. The monitor went blank, but power stayed on with fans still blowing. I turned off the PSU and surge protector. A visual examination of the capacitors reveals no burst caps, and no damage to any board components. Now the system will not power on.

    I've tried hitting the on-board power and reset switches on the board, and flicking the A/B switch for the backup BIOS and trying to reboot from there. Nothing-it's cold, and there's no Dr. Debug code or any LED to indicate any status of the board whatsoever; not even showing if it's plugged in.

    I've had a video card blow VRU's before due to insufficient cooling--there was smoke and stink, with smoke marks on the PCB from the VRU after the fan and heatsink was removed. There's nothing like that in this case. My slightly educated guess is that raising the voltage on the north bridge blew a capacitor, and that I can't see any damage because the heatsink is covering it. I guess it could also be the 7850K, but judging from the volume of the bang, it's probably a bigger component.

    I'm probably going to be out another three weeks or so from being able to use my system now, since I'm probably going to have to RMA the board. That's assuming ASRock even lets me do that, since the board had at least one alteration from factory settings in the BIOS. What a shame--the board advertises support for 2400MHz and for 8GB modules, and for FM2+ support, but include all of those, and it's a no-go. :(

  2. #2
    Spyone1 is offline Member
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    The Team website, not having much technical information at all about their product, says the RAM "can fully display the configuration 9-11-11-28 (tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS) at a low operating voltage at 1.65V without sacrificing either performance or stability". It is Newegg that say the settings are 10-12-12-31. I didn't see 9-11-11-28 in the list of settings you said you tried?

    Having said that:
    The Newegg site says that your specific RAM was "Designed with focus on their compatibility with the Sandy Bridge platform"...i.e an Intel Motherboard.

    Your RAM is not listed on the AsRock FM2A88X Extreme 6+ motherboard RAM compatibility list.
    I did end up finding a compatibility finder on the TEAM Website, but when I went to select a motherboard, it listed ONLY Intel-type motherboards, no AMD motherboards at all. Either I selected the incorrect thing to start with, it is detecting that I am using an AsRock Intel motherboard and thus only showing Intel compatible motherboards, or they are only listing AsRock Intel-type motherboards to start with.

    Code 48 is related to memory problems, definitely. It is entirely possible you have tried to use incompatible RAM and kept forcing the motherboard to try and use those RAM settings you listed until something gave, which would certainly explain the loud popping sound and the lack of any activity since.
    Last edited by Spyone1; 02-27-2014 at 04:17 PM. Reason: Added the compatibility finder on TEAM website

    MAIN PC
    CPU
    - i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz
    MB - AsRock X79 Extreme6 (Bios P2.80)
    RAM - 2 x 8Gb Patriot Viper 1866 CL10 Series @933Mhz
    GPU - ASUS Radeon HD 7870 Direct CU II (2Gb) x 2 (XFire)
    CASE - Fractal Design Desire R4 Black Case (windowless)
    FANS - Standard Fan CPU, 5 x FD Silent 2 140mm Fans in case
    PSU - Thermaltake R2 800W
    SSD - Sandisk SDSSDHP2 240Gb (boot)
    HDD - 2 x Seagate ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    SYS - Win7 x64 Ultimate
    KB - Logitech K350 Wireless
    MOU -
    Razor Naga Molten mouse
    MON - ASUS VS247H (1920 x 1080)
    UPS - Belkin Line Interactive 1400VA 840W
    System is not overclocked at all.
    2ND PC
    AMD FM2 A10-7850K @ 3.70Ghz
    AsRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ (Bios P2.90)
    2 x 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

    Kaveri Spectre Desktop (onboard) @ 760Mhz
    Thermaltake V9 case (1 x 120mm, 1 x 240mm fan)
    Corsair H80i Water Cooler w/2 x 120mm fans
    Seasonic G-Series (SSR-650RM Active PFC F3) 650W

    OCZ Vertex 4 120Gb SSD (Boot)
    2 x ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    Win7 X64 Ultimate
    Logitech G15 (6 G Keys) USB
    Logitech MX-518 mouse
    Phillips 22HFL3350D/10 (1920 x 1080)
    NAS - Netgear RN104-100AJS 4 Bay (not hooked in)
    Not overclocking


  3. #3
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    Ha! Are you positive it wasn't the inexpensive(cheap!) Rosewill surge protector that didn't blow instead? $14.99 surge protectors contain nothing more than simple current limiting MOV's. Known to blow easily and shunting to ground. Switching power supplies and MOV's are not the best of friends

    If and when it comes alive after plugging it into a wall outlet go into the BIOS and bump your CPU/NB up +0.05v. That gives the IMC some added voltage to cope/deal with your four sticks of 2400 RAM.
    #1 - Please, when seeking help, enter the make and model of ALL parts that your system is comprised of in your Signature, or at least the model #'s in your System Specs, then "Save' it.
    ____If you are overclocking, underclocking, or undervolting any parts, informing us of this and their values would prove beneficial in helping you.

    #2 - G.Skill RAM Configurator for your boardSamsung Memory for your boardLatest AMD Chipset Drivers/WindowsLatest AMD Graphics Drivers/WindowsLatest Intel Drivers

    #3 - Please use the eXtreme Outer Vision Power Supply Calculator found HERE to determine if it might be your PSU at issue.
    ____Consider your PSU to be the foundation from which all else is built upon. Anything built upon a weak foundation is poorly built.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    @wardog: I plugged the PSU power in cable into a wall outlet with just the motherboard power connector, one RAM module, and the CPU. I hit the power switch on the motherboard. Nothing--no LEDs or error codes.

    @Spyone1: The thing with the RAM isn't so much an incompatibility as it is the RAM and motherboard manufacturers not bothering to test the two together and write a profile for the motherboard's storage. I was able to break the board in less than an hour by only adjusting settings to what was available within the default BIOS--manual latency and voltage adjustments are for manufacturers and users who know what the adjustments will do.

  5. #5
    parsec's Avatar
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel Benedict View Post
    @wardog: I plugged the PSU power in cable into a wall outlet with just the motherboard power connector, one RAM module, and the CPU. I hit the power switch on the motherboard. Nothing--no LEDs or error codes.

    @Spyone1: The thing with the RAM isn't so much an incompatibility as it is the RAM and motherboard manufacturers not bothering to test the two together and write a profile for the motherboard's storage. I was able to break the board in less than an hour by only adjusting settings to what was available within the default BIOS--manual latency and voltage adjustments are for manufacturers and users who know what the adjustments will do.
    A mother board and other components could be ruined quickly with several different options in the BIOS that have a range of settings that are beyond the standard operating parameters of the device they deal with. Why manufactures do this is strange IMO, and just asking for trouble. Yes, it is done for extreme OCing with LN2, etc, but how many people do that?

    I would be afraid to try 1.8V on any DDR3 memory, just to make it work. If it won't work at the rated voltage, it's not compatible with the board. It's not just memory profiles in the BIOS that makes memory compatible, the memory controllers have specs for the type of chips used in compatible DIMMs. How does increasing memory voltage override the lack of a memory profile?

  6. #6
    Spyone1 is offline Member
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    I understand what you are saying, and I do feel for you losing your motherboard. I blew one out about 6 weeks ago (well, the sound chip and the primary PCI-e slot both blew).

    I always explain incompatible RAM (to the uninitiated computer user, not saying you are, but some reading this might be) using the old "square peg/round hole" analogy.

    The round hole was the motherboard, the square peg was the RAM. The two go together if you just sit it on top (so when it worked at 1333Mhz), but trying to force it in to the hole (get it to advertised operating specs) by using increasingly heavy "hammers" (again, in this case, by constantly changing settings and increasing voltage) was just going to break either the RAM or the motherboard. I counted 15 or 16 different setting you tried (with I daresay more you didn't list), all with an error code saying "This RAM isn't working with this motherboard".

    I am wondering, when they are testing their motherboard/RAM compatibility, if the manufacturers actually find RAM that ISN'T compatible, and if they do, why they do not supply a list of that as well.
    "THIS is the RAM that is compatible with our motherboard"
    "THIS is the RAM that we found not compatible with our motherboard".

    With your other comment about "RAM and motherboard manufacturers not bothering to test the two together", there must be literally hundreds of different RAM sets by now. It would probably be unrealistic to expect motherboard (or even RAM) manufacturers to test every single set of RAM available with every single motherboard at every single possible setting. It would possibly be in the thousands of possible permutations per motherboard.

    MAIN PC
    CPU
    - i7-3820 @ 3.60Ghz
    MB - AsRock X79 Extreme6 (Bios P2.80)
    RAM - 2 x 8Gb Patriot Viper 1866 CL10 Series @933Mhz
    GPU - ASUS Radeon HD 7870 Direct CU II (2Gb) x 2 (XFire)
    CASE - Fractal Design Desire R4 Black Case (windowless)
    FANS - Standard Fan CPU, 5 x FD Silent 2 140mm Fans in case
    PSU - Thermaltake R2 800W
    SSD - Sandisk SDSSDHP2 240Gb (boot)
    HDD - 2 x Seagate ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    SYS - Win7 x64 Ultimate
    KB - Logitech K350 Wireless
    MOU -
    Razor Naga Molten mouse
    MON - ASUS VS247H (1920 x 1080)
    UPS - Belkin Line Interactive 1400VA 840W
    System is not overclocked at all.
    2ND PC
    AMD FM2 A10-7850K @ 3.70Ghz
    AsRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ (Bios P2.90)
    2 x 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

    Kaveri Spectre Desktop (onboard) @ 760Mhz
    Thermaltake V9 case (1 x 120mm, 1 x 240mm fan)
    Corsair H80i Water Cooler w/2 x 120mm fans
    Seasonic G-Series (SSR-650RM Active PFC F3) 650W

    OCZ Vertex 4 120Gb SSD (Boot)
    2 x ST2000DM001 2Tb HDD (Storage)
    Win7 X64 Ultimate
    Logitech G15 (6 G Keys) USB
    Logitech MX-518 mouse
    Phillips 22HFL3350D/10 (1920 x 1080)
    NAS - Netgear RN104-100AJS 4 Bay (not hooked in)
    Not overclocking


  7. #7
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    I tried the PSU out on a different motherboard after noticing that three of the capacitors inside were leaking white goo. That Gigabyte FM2 board would not power on either. I'm abandoning the RMA process for the ASRock and switching to RMA-ing the EVGA Supernova instead. I was able to get the Team Xtreem up to 2133MHz at 11-11-11-29 on the Gigabyte board. If I can get it to that at least on the FM2+ with my 7850K, I might stay with those settings for a while. It might be a matter of underclocking the FM2+, or maybe undervolting the RAM. I'd like to know how I can monitor the PSU better so I can have advance warning that it is reaching its limits. Same with altering other settings--the FM2+ platform is brand spankin' new, and there aren't many resources out there for it, but one thing is for sure--I need to know how to proceed safely with pushing each component. I'd like to know whether anyone has gotten any RAM from any manufacturer (particularly Team Group) up to 2400MHz with any ASRock FM2+ board.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    After taking some photos and shining a flashlight around, I think it might be due to solder contacting a capacitor and then dripping onto a coil, and shorting that coil. The white goo is probably there as spacer.

  9. #9
    parsec's Avatar
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    The white goo, which should be stiff but slightly flexible is similar to silicone sealant, which is used to keep components inside the PSU from moving around, or as a spacer as you said. It is usually gooped on pretty sloppily, even on the best quality PSUs I've seen.

    The solder you saw is not good, that's some sloppy work if it didn't drip from something else, which I doubt happened. OTOH, with bottom PSU mounting PC cases, the PSU is upside down, so melting solder could drip down, if that is the kind of case you have. But for solder to melt from a PSU doing its job is impossible, that would indicate a big time problem.

    Monitoring a PSU is not something we have any access to besides the basic things, like the three output voltages. If any of the voltages drop below their normal value by about 0.25V for the 3.3V and 5V rails, and 0.50V for the 12V rail, then things are not good, particularly for an expensive, high-end PSU.

    We have no temperature sensors to check, and they would need to be in the appropriate spots, like the 12V rail heat sink. If the fan is running fast and loud and you feel warm air coming out of the PSU, it is being stressed, but that alone is not an abnormal condition.

    How do you monitor a bad capacitor or a transistor that is going bad? Very difficult if even possible to do, and expensive.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Extreme6+ 32GB (4x8GB) 2133MHz, 2400MHz code 48, then popping sound, now no power-on

    After digging around some it might be due to this. Seems there is a possible problem with the 220-P2-1000-XR you list on page two of your spreadsheet.

    EVGA - Articles - Power Supply Update Notice

    Below is only a short snippet of the text contained on/at the above link:
    EVGA Power Supply Update Notice

    EVGA has discovered that a small batch of our 1300W & 1000W Power Supplies (P/N: 120-G2-1300-XR, 220-P2-1000-XR, 120-G2-1000-XR) did not meet the quality levels that EVGA stands behind. There is insufficient insulation on the thermal pad by a heatsink which may cause the Power Supply to shut down or be unable to power on. If you have one of these part numbers, please fill in your serial number below on this page to see if your power supply is affected. NOTE: This symptom should not occur on ANY Power Supply that was purchased on October 1st, 2013 or later.
    On the linked page above is a box to enter your Serial Number to determine if yours might be affected.
    #1 - Please, when seeking help, enter the make and model of ALL parts that your system is comprised of in your Signature, or at least the model #'s in your System Specs, then "Save' it.
    ____If you are overclocking, underclocking, or undervolting any parts, informing us of this and their values would prove beneficial in helping you.

    #2 - G.Skill RAM Configurator for your boardSamsung Memory for your boardLatest AMD Chipset Drivers/WindowsLatest AMD Graphics Drivers/WindowsLatest Intel Drivers

    #3 - Please use the eXtreme Outer Vision Power Supply Calculator found HERE to determine if it might be your PSU at issue.
    ____Consider your PSU to be the foundation from which all else is built upon. Anything built upon a weak foundation is poorly built.

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