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Thread: did something stupid...




  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    1,393

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    Well, i heard of this thing called LAPPING a heatsink. So i decide to lap my cpu heatspreader, and my spark 7+ XE. First i use rubbing achol to get off the grease, then i dryed it. I took "very fine 220 grit and scrubbed it in a circle. After that i cleaned up and add barely any thermal grease, it did not cover the whole cpu , but the area it did cover it wasn't enough for a "thin layer". So now instead of 38 idle and 45 load, i get 42 idle and 53 load. : omg: I don't know what to do, i think its the thermal grease but i am thinking of getting a new hsf. Give me your :2cents:
    CPU: Opteron 165 @ 311x9 - 2817.8 mhz - 1.47v
    Mobo: Abit KN8-SLI
    RAM: 2x512 Crucial Ballistic Tracers500 @ 202 mhz 2-2-2-5 T1
    GFX: Asus EAX1950pro @ 648/1408
    PSU: Thermaltake 500w
    SC: Audigy 2 zs
    LCD: 22' Samsung 225bw
    Speakers: Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 Ultra
    Mouse: Logitech G5

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    51

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    Today I'm gonna have to do the same thing: I gotta lap my Volcano 7+ too. I've done some research and came across a comprehensive lapping guide. Also the webpage of Arctic Silver has a very good guide on how to apply the AC3.

    Overclockers Club lapping guide

    Arctic Silver 3 instructions

    If you go and view the first link, then you have a link on that page which directs you to their forum to discuss the lappingguide. Don't mind the "know-it-all" 'tudes in that thread (if you care to read up on) but listen to what the AS3 guys say:

    From the AS3 instruction page:

    The flatter the mating surfaces, the thinner the layer that is required. Stock processors and/or heatsinks with normal surface irregularities will require a layer 0.003" to 0.005 thick as shown below to fill the resultant gaps. (Equal to the thickness of about 1 sheet of standard weight paper.) Properly lapped heatsinks with mirror finishes will only require a translucent haze.
    Anyways, you can always redo your heatsink. Start with course sandpaper and so on. Since you already tried to lap your CPU, I would recommend you to read this lappingguide as it explains how you could successfully lap a Northbridge. But the same would apply to your CPU.

    Good luck this time and if you put some patient hours in your work, you should get much better results :)

    -Magic

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Winnipeg, Canada
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    848

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    :laugh: 220 is not very fine at all. That is actually quite corse and is the reason for the raised temps. And the object of lapping is to make the surface as flat and nonporus as possable. Read this and redo it properly. Don't worry, you can fix it and do not need a new one. You are lucky you have a heatspreader.(I think everyone can see the humor in not having a heatspreader and attemting lapping with 220 grit)
    athlon xp-m@2456mhz(12x204)
    tt aquariusII liquid cooled/ arctic silver ceramique
    asus a7n8xe-dlx
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    logitech mx518/ logitech wingman rumble
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    creative x-fi fatal1ty 64mb/ altec lansing 251-5.1
    mushkin 550w

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    1,599

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    yea, with no heat spreader, watch out... oh man...

    I am a woodworker, and an a friend of mine buys and uses, 6,000 and 9,000 grit sandpaper to sharpen his lathe tools... This fine of paper is a pretty amazing thing, one gentle rub against your fingernal and it polishes all of the 'high spots' of your fingernal to a perfect flawless shine. Makes for a weird looking fingernail. I found this out inadvertantly btw... LOL :laugh:
    "In their capacity as a tool, computers will be but a ripple on the surface of our culture. In their capacity as intellectual challenge, they are without precedent in the cultural history of mankind." - Edsger Dijkstra

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Well i guess it was my room temperature, now temps are at 35 idle and 43 load. room temp is 85F
    CPU: Opteron 165 @ 311x9 - 2817.8 mhz - 1.47v
    Mobo: Abit KN8-SLI
    RAM: 2x512 Crucial Ballistic Tracers500 @ 202 mhz 2-2-2-5 T1
    GFX: Asus EAX1950pro @ 648/1408
    PSU: Thermaltake 500w
    SC: Audigy 2 zs
    LCD: 22' Samsung 225bw
    Speakers: Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 Ultra
    Mouse: Logitech G5

  6. #6

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    wow my case temp is lower than your room temp, 73 F

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    418

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    Asianbatman,

    That isn't going to solve your problem. Sanding with 220 severely scored your HSF. You are going to need to lap it now properly to get it back to at least where it wsa before.
    You will have to do it in steps going up to 1200 and maybe more to get it back to what it was before, or at least better than it is now. The guide explains it all.
    220 is for sanding wood. So it is pretty gritty.
    Also, you need to either "block" sand it. OR place the sand paper on a mirror/glass or another perfectly flat surface, then move the HSF evenly over it to ensure a FLAT sand. Doing it by hand will just make it that much more uneven. Good luck.

    Zeradul is right about the 6000/9000. You can't normally find that at your local hardware store.
    I am a pilot and we use 12000 grit polishing compound to "clean" the windows. It is finnnnnnneeeeeee stuff though.


    Chez

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    1,393

    Default

    For some old reason it is working fine, even 1 degree less. My room temp is always in the 80 to 90, pretty hot!!!!!!!
    Do i have to do it step by step? or can i just skip to like 1200?
    CPU: Opteron 165 @ 311x9 - 2817.8 mhz - 1.47v
    Mobo: Abit KN8-SLI
    RAM: 2x512 Crucial Ballistic Tracers500 @ 202 mhz 2-2-2-5 T1
    GFX: Asus EAX1950pro @ 648/1408
    PSU: Thermaltake 500w
    SC: Audigy 2 zs
    LCD: 22' Samsung 225bw
    Speakers: Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 Ultra
    Mouse: Logitech G5

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    4,246

    Default

    go step by step, otherwise it will take you forever to sand those grooves out with 1200 grit
    I've gone too far and need to move on!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Winnipeg, Canada
    Posts
    848

    Default

    MagicBox posted two good links. The third, although it has good theory and process, the grits are still to corse. On the other extreme, 2000 grit is a bit overkill unless you want a total mirror finish. I stick with 400-1500 usually. Unless a HEATSINK is a bit or more warped, then I bring out the 280-320 to start with. The object on cpu's(without heatspreaders)and NB's is to see copper. Be very carefull with northbridges because some do NOT have copper and are all resin(plastic).
    If noob's go copper hunting on a NB they might find chip guts.
    Take note and have lots of patience and the results should be rewarding.
    athlon xp-m@2456mhz(12x204)
    tt aquariusII liquid cooled/ arctic silver ceramique
    asus a7n8xe-dlx
    thermaltake xaserIII lanfire
    bfg 6800gt
    seagate sataII 250gb/seagate 7200rpm 160gb ide
    samsung dvdrw
    2x1024 kingston hyper-x pc3200/ windows xp pro sp3
    logitech mx518/ logitech wingman rumble
    2x samsung 955df 19"/ canon i960
    creative x-fi fatal1ty 64mb/ altec lansing 251-5.1
    mushkin 550w

    opteron 146 @ 2850 (10x285)
    DFI infinity nf4 ultra
    thermaltake tsunami dream -black
    seagate sataII 500gb
    evga 8600gt oc ssc edition
    samsung sata dvd-rw
    2x1024 ocz black
    logitech ifeel/ nec accusync 75f
    ocz fatal1ty 550w

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