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Thread: Water-cooling Thread!




  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    Since you are new to watercooling may I suggest checking out the new Koolance system by www.koolance.com. It is a watercooling case shipped ready to go. Even has waterblocks for chipset, video and hard drives.


    I have used watercooling a few times but this system seems to be a good way to start. If you do not like that try the blizzard line of coolers. That is what I have with a Danger Den waterblock

  2. #12
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    Nov 2001
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggo
    So how did ya go with it dejay? :?:
    <center></center>
    It went very well :)

    I don't have any pictures at the moment, but I can say that my cpu is running about 10 degrees above ambient, as stated by my mobo, as compared with 30 degrees above ambient before the fix. This has allowed me to run my athyXP 1800+ at 1737 MHz (12.5 x 139) as reported by WCPUID. This is good for me because I couldn't even push my FSB up one lousy meg above 133 before! I would like to push my fsb higher, but I think either the mobo, ram, GF3 or pci card is restricting it.

    I have a very ugly looking car heater core sitting on top of my case, which is imbedded in a home made shroud. The shroud is constructed out of ply wood from a "ROAD WORK AHEAD" sign I 'borrowed' a few years back in a drunken wonder ;). On the back of this shroud is a 100mm 12 volt fan.

    Into the radiator runs a tube from the pump which resides under my desk in it's resovoir (sp?) at the moment. The pump is a 240v model, which leaves my computer's power supply alone.

    A tube leads from my radiator outlet into the back of the computer, and then into my waterblock (a cyclone 2 from Silverprop). This waterblock is quite heavy and of good constuction, although the base was in serious need of lapping when it arrived, which I did quite easily. A tube then exits the waterblock and leads to my resovior in which the pump resides.

    I used Arctic Silver II and made sure all my hoses are clamped tightly, especially on the water block.

    Improvements I could make:

    Seal my shroud a bit better so that all the air goes through the radiator. A bit of silicone sealant should do the trick.

    Place my resovior higher so that my pump isn't fighting gravity as much.

    Paint my shroud :D

    Get a better resovior, because a solid knock to this one will see water spill everywhere :eek:

    Conclusion: I had a lot of fun putting this together and gained some good experience. My system runs cool and I can clock it a bit higher without worrying about heat to the cpu. My 3dmark2001 score has increased from 8059 to 8225. All in all I am quite pleased.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    New England Highlands, Australia
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    That good to hear but ya realise that now you've begun the darkside will keep ya tryin' even more now, don't ya? :D
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  4. #14
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    Nov 2001
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    Yeah, that may well be the case!

    I just realised that my temps are a degree or two closer to ambient than they were yesterday. I seem to remember reading on the Arctic Silver web site that it takes a day or two to 'cure' to full effectiveness. Things keep on getting better :D

    Now, I wonder how easy a peltier would be to install.....?

  5. #15
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    Now that involves a lot of work, insulation and silicon that does. ;)
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  6. #16
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    Dec 2001
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    Just a little information on Heat Exchangers from cars (radiators).
    After i viewed a post by Wiggo, on "flow rate plays a big part too".
    The auto heat exchangers need water to say inside the heat exchanger for a certain length of time, for it to become efficent at cooling the liquid or water.
    Kygeek
    BROADBAND JUNKIE
    ADSL AND CABLE @ my house :)
    LIFE IS GOOD :)

  7. #17
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    Nov 2001
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    New England Highlands, Australia
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    The good flowrate is needed at the CPU waterblock hence the 3/8"-1/2" connections (1/4" connections won't give that) and a good pump is required to keep the water flowing at a reasonable rate (and also for reliability but not super fast either) but most radiators used are similar to car ones as they have tanks on either end connected by a series of galleries and these galleries which will kill the flowrate while the fluid is traveling through the radiator only to be picked up again when being forced back out the other side. :smokin:
    <center></center>

  8. #18
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    Nov 2001
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    As promised, here's a picture of my radiator in its shroud.



    Impressively ugly :D

    The radiator had foam already around it, which makes the fit relatively air tight.

  9. #19
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    Ok looks like it means business but how does it perform so far is what I'm really interested in? :D
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  10. #20
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    Nov 2001
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    It's still about 10 deg above ambient. I would like a bit more airflow through the rad, but that would mean a faster and noisier fan. I was thinking of placing it on the floor, where the temps are probably a few degrees cooler.

    It's very reliable and I can clock as posted above. I degraded my ram latancey settings to increase fsb speed, and this worked, but due to the more stable settings of my ram, my benchmark scores plumeted. :( But this means that if I can cool my ram a bit, I may be able to push it further :)

    I like this set up, because I can migrate my cooling system from system to system when I upgrade, maybe changing the water block if need be.

    I want to try some ways of cooling my ram and 3d card now. I may use water or ram sinks.

    I only wish I could put gold fish in my res :D

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