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Thread: Fan System Suggestions?




  1. #1
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    Hey folks!
    Just built my first system ever, thanks to suggestions and sites like this one to replace my first PC ever, a WEAK eMachines 500 Celeron. I chose an ECS K7S5A board, Athlon XP 1700+, 512MB of Crucial DDR2100, MSI Ti4200 128MB, Audigy Gamer soundcard, Lite-On DVD and Lite-On CD burner, Allied 400 watt PSU and a 160GB Western Digital HD with the 8MB cache, all encased in a Skyhawk Galaxy case and running XP Home Ed. It all went together with a minimum of fuss and fit my budget well. Now, I am left with the question of cooling as I'm a bit intrigued with overclocking within reasonable limits, but the fans I got with the system are driving me crazy as the machine is in my bedroom. I already removed the Speeze HD cooler I thought I needed, the ducted 80mm rear intake fan supplied with the case as well as the 60mm rear exhaust. I'm left with an uncontrolled (direct to PSU) 80mm front case fan, the stock AMD heatsink w/60mm fan, the GPU fan and the dual PSU fans. After taking turns playing Warcraft III for several hours today with the kiddos, checked the CPU temp at 120F! Highest I'd seen it since removing the fans. I have no frame of reference whether this is too hot or not, and I'd like to make the system even quieter than it is. I'm already using Arctic Silver 3, but I can tell by reading some other posts I probably put it on too thick. Is there a mean temperature at which the Athlon XP will perform and last well? I'd also specifically like to know what are the most effective placings and sizes for fans, should they be thermostatically controlled, and can/should I do that without installing a fanbus? I'm already considering a quieter PSU like the Enermax that allows sleep mode and manual fan control. I'd like to come up with something that doesn't require me to hack up the case. I'm also interested to hear if anyone's using the Globalwin CAK4-88T Heatsink/Fan and how it performs. Thanks!:hammer:

  2. #2
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    Dec 2002
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    120 F is not too bad, but it could be a lot better...my 2100+ stays at 100 F during idle and peaks at 107 F during some hardcare ut2003(i use a modified volcano 6+)...replace as many 60 mm fans (like the hsf) with 80 mm fans as you can...there is a huge noise difference for the same amount of cooling. to get your system as cool as possible you're going to need as many fans as you can stand..or get a liquid cooling solution (which can be very quite if you do it right). if you dont mind cutting your case you might even want to try some 92 mm or 120 mm fans to get the noise down. You should serioulsy consider a new hsf, the one's that come in the retail box just arn't very good. a fanbus is probably your best bet for controling fan noise.

  3. #3
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    Yeah, I figured that 120F was a bit hot. With all the stock fans installed, I was hovering around 101F CPU and 89F system. I'm planning to get a 60-80mm fan adapter for the rear of the case and the HSF I was looking at, just wondered if thermostat fans were worthwhile. I like the idea of the fans being automatic so if I forget to shut down the fan speed at night, it'll slow down by itself. My main noise culprit seems to be the PSU and it seems a shame to replace a brand new one, but the Enermax EG365P-VE(FCA) has a sleep mode which my motherboard supports. Hmmmm....the price I pay for my ignorance.....

  4. #4
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    my psu fans are supposed to be contoled my the thermostat in the psu... it works, and it's quite, but i'd rather have manual control so i could have as much or as little cooling as i want when i want it. just becaouse the thermostat says it's ok to lower the fan speed, dosn't mean that i want it to. some fans are made to be quite by design, you may want to look into it. I totaly forgot about another option...acoustic foam, it'll keep your case nice and quite. but it will raise the temps a few degrees.
    I've gone too far and need to move on!

  5. #5
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    OK Mini.....did a test suggested in another post this afternoon and ran 3D Mark with the case sides off....at idle, the system temp dropped to 80F and the CPU to an even 100F. It's obviously a case flow problem. Another thing I have to fix is the PSU. Due to the case design, it had to be installed upside down, with the second fan facing the top of the case. Looks like I'll have to do a bit of hacking anyway to fix that, but nothing major. I splurged a bit today and ordered the Enermax PSU with manual adjustable fan speed that also supports sleep mode, as well as the GlobalWin heatsink I mentioned earlier, which is thermostatically controlled, and was rated very well on one site. Globalwin also makes a cheap aluminum heatsink with a 60-80mm adapter, and the 80mm fan runs at 3000 RPM....pretty quiet. I can use the adapter to get an 80mm fan at the back of the case using my existing fans, and use the slower fan at the front, as it comes with a 3 pin connector that works with my board's sysfan connector which I can monitor from the BIOS. Later I may add a speed controller or a thermostat for the back fan. They're cheap, but what I saw only came in 3 pin, and it'd take a bushel of adapters from 3 pin to 4 pin and back again unless I get the soldering iron out and do it myself, just not sure about the voltages, etc. I was told that a thermostat fan was useless for the front of the case, as all you're getting is cold air coming in, so it'd never run at max. Man.....no one told me this would be so addictive....is there a 12-step program in case I go too far with tweaking?
    Wordbiker:hammer:

  6. #6
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    ya, this stuff can get extremely addictive...i'm always trying to think of new things Ican do to my case. One thing to keep in mind is that you want as much air coming into your case as possible.... so putting the slower fan in front might not be the greatest idea. Generaly speaking, you want more air comming in than is going out. I'm being too lasy right now to go back and read the other post to refresh myself with your layout, but you might seriously consider putting an intake fan in the side door, over the PCI/AGP cards. If you could do that, it may make a huge difference. Air flow can also be greatly improved by using round ide cables....flat cables can be one of air flow's worst nightmares. I hope some of this advice is useful.
    I've gone too far and need to move on!

  7. #7
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    Ok ya pretty close there. ;)

    Ya need to balance the intake cfm of all ya intake fans with that of the cfm of ya exhaust fans with a slight lean to the more intake than exhaust. For example the PC that I'm on now is capable of up to 185cfm intake and up to 178cfm exhaust but this is just plain overkill as my server manages to do just as well in airflow with only 80cfm in and 76cfm out (how the fans are positioned and how well they breathe in an unhindered way is more important then how much is physically possible to force thru the case). ;)
    <center>:cheers:</center>

  8. #8
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    Well, that helps....and it doesn't. As my system is now, I could add more exhaust fans on the back with more 60-80mm adapters, but for sound purposes I'm not sure I want to. With a little creativity (Read: Hacking or a bracket) I could put the ducted fan that came with the case back over the PCI slots. That may be the best option as I also ordered the Zalman silent GPU cooler (Somebody...STOP ME!) and it needs a fan over it. I'm also considering adding the largest fan I can fit, probably a 90mm, under the front HD cages, vented and filtered through the bottom of the case, perhaps even leaving the existing 80mm fan intact with some speed controls on both so I can balance it all out. The side fan is NOT an option, as I have devised a sinister plan for the case side, involving EL tape, cable, LEDs and some eye of newt....he he he.
    I really don't have a way of checking the CFM of my existing fans. They're either the generic ones that came with the case, or the cheap LED fans I got before I came here and was enlightened about what REAL mods look like. How would I take into account the exhaust function that the PSU serves in calculating that out? Is there an easy way to figure the CFM, besides the obvious lower temps if it works? I'd take a pic and show you my case layout, but not being done with my project, I'd feel a bit like a plump girl asked to get naked....;)
    Once again, thanks for the neighborly help, Wordbiker:hammer:

  9. #9
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    Well most of ya LED fans are rated at 34cfm but if ya can find a name and model number then www.google.com maybe able to shed some light on the cfm ratings of the others. ;)
    <center>:cheers:</center>

  10. #10
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    Oh yeah, I forgot to tell ya....I never even started with the flat cables...my girlfriend thinks they're ugly....lol...and she MUST have great taste, after all....:D

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