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Thread: Which UPS (no-break) is adequate for my config




  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    São Paulo, Brazil
    Posts
    3

    Exclamation Which UPS (no-break) is adequate for my config

    Hello,


    Currently have a 500VA no-beak (UPS) that does not support the power that your computer requires (when I set the maximum resolution in games it beeps and turns off the computer), so I wonder which no-break is indicated for my custom Desktop system below, considering 10/15 minutes of autonomy.


    PS: I am not looking for model names, but for the adequate total output power (Watts or VA), so I could refine my search through the various vendors in Brazil.


    Thanks in advance....




    Configuration Desktop Gaming
    =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
    Motherboard
    P9X79 DELUXE

    Processor (LGA 2011 Socket - 6 cores 12 threads)
    Core i7-3930K

    Memory Quad-channel 1866 MHz (4x8 = 32GB)
    Corsair Vengeance Red 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1866 MHZ (PC3 15000) Desktop Memory (CMZ32GX3M4X1866C10R)

    SSD
    OCZ Technology 256GB Vector Series SATA 6.0 GB/s 7 mm Height 2.5-Inch SSD VTR1-25SAT3-256G

    GPU (Quad-GPU CrossFireX / SLI)
    Sapphire Radeon Vapor-X HD 7970 GHZ OC 6GB DDR5 DL-DVI-I / SL-DVI-D / HDMI / Dual Mini DP PCI-Express Graphics

    PSU
    Corsair HX-1050W

    Acessories
    WaterCooler Corsair Hydro H100
    2 x Fan 120mm - Cooler Master - Azul
    Keyboard / Mouse (Microsoft Kit 5000)
    Mechanical HD - Seagate 2TB 7200RPM 6GB/s
    Blu-ray/DVD R/W Pioneer

    Screen
    TV Monitor 22" LED T22B300 - Samsung

    Case
    Phantom Black 410 Atx Mid Tower



  2. #2
    profJim's Avatar
    profJim is online now Chief Munchkin + moderator
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    Location
    Tacoma, WA. [USA]
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    Default Re: Which UPS (no-break) is adequate for my config

    A web search using ups va vs watts will explain the difference and why most home users only need to deal with the UPS wattage rating.

    The following information applies to America and probably applies to most other countries:
    For consumer grade UPS electrical rating, VA x 0.6 = wattage. My UPS's rating is VA = 1500 and rated output is 900 watts.
    For long term reliability, the maximum sustained UPS power delivery probably should be lower than 80% of its rated wattage. This recommendation also applies to your power supplies.

    To answer your question, find several detailed reviews that deal with your video card setup and see how much A.C. wattage is required from the wall outlet when running the most demanding games or encoding. GPU overclocking can significantly increase the A.C. wattage requirements. Add 25% to the maximum wattage requirements for your system and this figure should be sufficient to safely power your system. Be sure to include wattage for attached hardware such as your monitor. If in doubt, contact the manufacturer's tech support and see which models they recommend based on how much A.C. wattage your system needs when maxed out.

    My UPS has automatic voltage regulation (AVR) and performs line conditioning all of the time. I don't want to overload my UPS during normal operation and I currently have both systems connected to the UPS.

    My SLI setup using two MSI N460GTX Hawk video cards requires over 300 watts A.C. when overclocked and running demanding video benchmarks or video stress tests.

    Your 500 VA ups probably has a 300 watt rating, where 500 x 0.6 = 300.

    Note:
    UPS units with modified step sine wave A.C. output sometimes won't properly switch over to battery power with some/many modern power supplies. It costs about 20% - 35% more to buy a consumer grade UPS unit with pure sine wave A.C. output.

    See Overclock/ Underclock with UPS for more information.



    Q9650 @ 4.10GHz [9x456MHz]
    P35-DS4 [rev: 2.0] ~ Bios: F14
    4x2GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 1094MHz @5-5-5-15
    MSI N460GTX Hawk Talon Attack (1GB) video card <---- SLI ---->
    Seasonic SS-660XP2 80 Plus Platinum psu (660w)
    WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data)
    Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD (boot)
    SLI @ 16/4 works when running HyperSLI
    Cooler Master 120XL Seidon push/pull AIO cpu water cooling
    Cooler Master HAF XB computer case (RC-902XB-KKN1)
    Asus VH242H 24" monitor [1920x1080]
    MSI N460GTX Hawk (1GB) video card
    Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
    win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium
    HT|Omega Claro plus+ sound card
    CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS
    E6300 (R0) @ 3.504GHz [8x438MHz] ~~ P35-DS3L [rev: 1.0] ~ Bios: F9 ~~ 4x2GB Kingston HyperX T1 PC2-8500, 876MHz @4-4-4-10
    Seasonic X650 80+ gold psu (650w) ~~ Xigmatek Balder HDT 1283 cpu cooler ~~ Cooler Master CM 690 case (RC-690-KKN1-GP)
    Samsung 830 128GB SSD MZ-7PC128B/WW (boot) ~~ WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data) ~~ ZM-MFC2 fan controller
    HT|Omega Striker 7.1 sound card ~~ Asus VH242H monitor [1920x1080] ~~ Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
    win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium ~~ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD U.P.S
    .


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    São Paulo, Brazil
    Posts
    3

    Default Re: Which UPS (no-break) is adequate for my config

    Thanks a lot for the comprehensive answer. I followed on your general advice while digging through the various UPS models.

    The analysis below lead to the following model (825W) made by the Brazilian authorized vendor for Schneider (APC):
    Buy APC Back-UPS 1500VA, 115V/220V, Brazil - Technical Specifications and Information | APC

    I think it covers most of the requirements of my current wattage:
    1) I used wattage calculator (eXtreme Power Supply Calculator)
    2) Inputted my config lead to approximately 550W + 22" led monitor (30W) + 25% recommended safe margin resulting in 725W
    3) The evaluated wattage above is actually 87% of the rated wattage (not 80% as you recommend), but this is ok due to the fact that I overestimated all the wattages just to be on the safe-side anyway...

    Thank you again for taking the time to explain those concepts!

    Quote Originally Posted by profJim View Post
    A web search using ups va vs watts will explain the difference and why most home users only need to deal with the UPS wattage rating.

    The following information applies to America and probably applies to most other countries:
    For consumer grade UPS electrical rating, VA x 0.6 = wattage. My UPS's rating is VA = 1500 and rated output is 900 watts.
    For long term reliability, the maximum sustained UPS power delivery probably should be lower than 80% of its rated wattage. This recommendation also applies to your power supplies.

    To answer your question, find several detailed reviews that deal with your video card setup and see how much A.C. wattage is required from the wall outlet when running the most demanding games or encoding. GPU overclocking can significantly increase the A.C. wattage requirements. Add 25% to the maximum wattage requirements for your system and this figure should be sufficient to safely power your system. Be sure to include wattage for attached hardware such as your monitor. If in doubt, contact the manufacturer's tech support and see which models they recommend based on how much A.C. wattage your system needs when maxed out.

    My UPS has automatic voltage regulation (AVR) and performs line conditioning all of the time. I don't want to overload my UPS during normal operation and I currently have both systems connected to the UPS.

    My SLI setup using two MSI N460GTX Hawk video cards requires over 300 watts A.C. when overclocked and running demanding video benchmarks or video stress tests.

    Your 500 VA ups probably has a 300 watt rating, where 500 x 0.6 = 300.

    Note:
    UPS units with modified step sine wave A.C. output sometimes won't properly switch over to battery power with some/many modern power supplies. It costs about 20% - 35% more to buy a consumer grade UPS unit with pure sine wave A.C. output.

    See Overclock/ Underclock with UPS for more information.




  4. #4
    profJim's Avatar
    profJim is online now Chief Munchkin + moderator
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Tacoma, WA. [USA]
    Posts
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    Default Re: Which UPS (no-break) is adequate for my config

    You're welcome, glad to help out.

    The UPS model you linked to has stepped approximation to a sinewave.
    This might not be a problem when there is a power interruption with your Corsair HX-1050W power supply.
    You should be able to safely test this by unplugging the UPS power cable from the wall outlet while your system is running.

    Let us know how your new UPS works with your system.
    Q9650 @ 4.10GHz [9x456MHz]
    P35-DS4 [rev: 2.0] ~ Bios: F14
    4x2GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 1094MHz @5-5-5-15
    MSI N460GTX Hawk Talon Attack (1GB) video card <---- SLI ---->
    Seasonic SS-660XP2 80 Plus Platinum psu (660w)
    WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data)
    Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD (boot)
    SLI @ 16/4 works when running HyperSLI
    Cooler Master 120XL Seidon push/pull AIO cpu water cooling
    Cooler Master HAF XB computer case (RC-902XB-KKN1)
    Asus VH242H 24" monitor [1920x1080]
    MSI N460GTX Hawk (1GB) video card
    Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
    win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium
    HT|Omega Claro plus+ sound card
    CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS
    E6300 (R0) @ 3.504GHz [8x438MHz] ~~ P35-DS3L [rev: 1.0] ~ Bios: F9 ~~ 4x2GB Kingston HyperX T1 PC2-8500, 876MHz @4-4-4-10
    Seasonic X650 80+ gold psu (650w) ~~ Xigmatek Balder HDT 1283 cpu cooler ~~ Cooler Master CM 690 case (RC-690-KKN1-GP)
    Samsung 830 128GB SSD MZ-7PC128B/WW (boot) ~~ WD Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB (data) ~~ ZM-MFC2 fan controller
    HT|Omega Striker 7.1 sound card ~~ Asus VH242H monitor [1920x1080] ~~ Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 Speakers
    win7 x64 sp1 Home Premium ~~ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD U.P.S
    .


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